Biker leggings Cassie

Moin ihr Lieben,


heute mal wieder von meinem eigenen Blog gepostet,
und zwar die "Cassie"-Pants von Style Arc.

Als ich letztes Jahr in Australien war habe ich nach einem Shop gesucht, aber leider werden die Schnittmuster ausschließlich über das Internet vertrieben (Style Arc ist ne Australische Marke, wie ihr euch vielleicht denken könnt). Bis vor Kurzem auch nur in Papierform, inzwischen kann man sie auch als pdf über Etsy bestellen (was sich schon allein deswegen lohnt, weil die pdf´s in mehreren Größen daher kommen, während man sich bei den Papiermustern immer für eine Größe entscheiden muss).

Good day sewing-lovers

today I´m showing you my latest make: "Cassie"-Pants by Style Arc.

When I was in Australia last year, I tried to find a Style Arc Shop or something similar, but these patterns are exclusively sold online. (The company sits in Australia, obviously)  Until shortly they were available as paper patterns only, but a few months ago they opened a shop in Etsy, were the patterns can be bought as a pdf to print yourself at home. Those come in packets of four sizes, whereas the paper patterns are sold in one size, so you have to make sure you pick the right one.

Der Schnitt sprach mit an, weil ich auf diesen Bikerstyle schon länger abfahre, er recht einfach zu sein schien und keine besonderen Verschlüsse hat (ich vermeide immernoch gern das Einsetzen von Reißverschlüssen) = ein Gewinn für meinen Kleiderschrank!

The pattern caught my eye because of the bikerstyle, which I find totally cool, the fact that it seemed quite easy to make and the fact that it doesn´t have a zipper (I still dread inserting zippers, brrrr)= a total bargain for my wardrobe!

Nachdem ich drei Wochen auf den Schnitt gewartet hatte, war er endlich da. Nur um dann für etwas mehr als ein Jahr in der Versenkung zu verschwinden...

...bis zu dem Samstag, als ich auf dem Maybachufermarkt diesen perfekten Stoff entdeckte! Einen dicken Jersey, fast ein Romanit, relativ wenig dehnbar, mit einer grauen Seite und einer Seite, die sich wie Wildleder anfühlt, so eine Art Velours in dunkelgrau.

Als ich ihn sah, wußte ich, der wird eine Cassie!

After ordering the pattern I waited three weeks until it finally arrived... only to be stashed away for more than one year... until one fine Saturday when I innocently roamed my favorite fabric market at the Maybachufer, where I discovered this perfect fabric. It´s a rather dense Jersey, almost a punta di Roma, relative few strech, with a grey side and a side which felt like the finest suede, in a dark grey.

I knew, this had to become a Cassie!

Mitgenommen, zu Hause brav gewaschen und dann zugeschnitten. Am nächsten Tag genäht. Hat alles super geklappt, nur beim Annähen des Taillenbandes mochte meine Maschine nicht so gerne die Veloursseite transportieren. Das hab ich gelöst, indem ich den Stich von zickzack auf relativ große Stichlänge Geradstich umgestellt habe (und dann gehofft, dass es nicht reißt bei der Anprobe). Ich war direkt ein bißchen aufgeregt, als ich sie zum ersten mal anprobiert habe, hatte ich doch aufs Geratewohl zugeschnitten in einer Größe 12. Alle Einzelteile werden noch von rechts abgesteppt, hätte ich was ändern müssen, wäre es also echt viel Arbeit geworden.

Aber zum Glück saß das Schätzchen wie ne Eins.

Der Stoff ist absolut genial, sollte er nächste Woche noch da sein, wandert auf jeden Fall noch was davon in meinen Vorrat. Er fühlt sich an wie ein Ziegenlederhandschuh für die Beine ;-)

I took some yardage home, washed it and cut my pattern. I sew it up the next day. Everything went smooth, only during attaching the waistband my machine didn´t like the leathery fabric and I had to change to a different stich to keep going, but greatfully, it worked out. I must admit I was a little anxcious when I tried it on for the first time...would it fit? All the pieces had to be top-stiched, so it would mean a lot of work, should I need to make some alterations.

But, luckily, this beauty fit like a glove!

I really love the fabric, it has such a buttery feel to it, like the finest goatleather. I´m definitely going to snatch up some more should it still be available :-)

Ich habe beim Zuschnitt die Länge um drei Zentimeter verlängert, ich mag Hosen nicht so gern am Knöchel enden lassen. Sonst habe ich nichts verändert.

I sew it in a size 12, with lengthening the hem for about 3cm as my only alteration. I like it when my pants are really long.

Fazit: Superbequeme, stylische Leggings
Schwierigkeitsgrad: einfach
Stoffverbrauch: ca. 1,30m bei 1,50m Stoffbreite, Größe 12
Änderungen: 3cm Länge zugegeben
Gesamt: Hurra, die nähe ich nochmal :-)


Summary: supercomfy. stylish pants
Skill level: easy
Yardage needed: approx. 1,30m with 1,50m width
Alterations: lengthening the hem for 3 cm
All in all: Love it, will make some more :-)

Okay, ihr Lieben, das war´s von mir,
was die anderen fleißigen Damen kreiert haben, könnt ihr beim MeMadeMittwoch bewundern: Hier


Other lovely creations you can find as usual here, at the MeMadeMittwoch-blog.


Viel Spaß beim Nähen und bis bald,
happy sewing,
Milan

Leichte Bluse :-) Easy blouse

Moin ihr Lieben,

hier kommt zum ersten Mal etwas von meinem eigenen blog, den ich zumeist auf Englisch beschreibe, hier die erste Ausnahme, in zweisprachiger Option.

Das Blüschen ist aus der "fashion Style" Ausgabe 4/2015, Top 22. Ich habe es in Größe 36 genäht, ohne Maßnehmen und Änderungen, auf gut Glück sozusagen, und siehe da - es hat funktioniert.

Der Stoff ist ein Baumwolle-Leinen-Gemisch, letztes Jahr irgendwann erstanden (natürlich auf dem Maybachufer-Markt) und bis jetzt relativ unbeachtet. Für diesen Schnitt erschien er mir wie geschaffen.

Hi Folks,

this is my first blouse made from woven fabric this season, an easy pattern taken from the Magazine "fashion Style" 4/2015, Blouse 22.

I made a straight size 36, no alterations needed (as I hoped it would work out and it did :-)).

The fabric was bought from my usual source, the market on Maybachufer, and sat in my stash for about a year or so. Now its time had come and it came out beautifully.

Die zwei Falten am Ausschnitt fallen so über die Brust, dass es sogar so aussieht, als hätte ich da was drin... mir gefällt´s ;-)

Those pleats give the Illusion of me actually having something to show in that department... I like it :-)

Wie man sieht knittert der Stoff doch ganz schön, was aber dem Gesamteindruck keinen Abbruch tut. Ich bin sehr zufrieden mit der Bluse, werde sie sicher oft tragen.

As you can see, the fabric, a cotton/linnen mix is a little crinkly, but I like it nontheless.

I will often wear this this season for sure.

So, nun aber zu den Mädels beim MeMadeMittwoch: Klick.

Have fun gril and check out the makes at MeMadeMittwoch.

Bis demnächst,

LG Milan

Sorbetto in Echino

Hi y´all,

it´s been quite a while since my last post here, I have been busy and, I admit, lazy with my blog.
I did sew a lot though!
Not the masses of pants I announced at the beginning of the year, but some hoodies (my new favorites), a skirt, some knotted knit tops and my latest make: a summery Sorbetto.

This time I used one of my self-imported fabrics from Japan: an Echino design in a nice voile quality made from 100% cotton. It has only limited drape, but the feel is soft and breezy. I love the design with those little petals in pink and did you notice the small foxes and deer strolling over it? So cute.

Concerning the size, I upgraded this one considerably, since the first ones I made were a lot more fitting, yet too tight under the arms and the darts sat high and had to be adjusted. With this one I used a size 10 (where it was a size 2 with the first one). The bustdarts were at the perfect height, the only thing bothering me was the length. I find it is too short.
For some extra volume I cut the backpiece a little wider and put a box pleat in the middle, which gives a nice silhouette.

You know, in summer, when it´s warm and likely to sweat more than usual, it is nice if the fabric of your shirt doesn´t kling to the skin so much. So this is a perfect change to the pattern in my view :-) 

I add a pic of my easter vacation to the North Sea, where I spent a few sunny days with my parents and sister plus family.

Promise to not stay away from you for so long again ;-)
Until then,
happy sewing.
M.

Challenge cancelled...

Hi sewing folks,


after thinking over my last post and taking sustainability into consideration I decided to call the challenge off.
I simply have no need for 34 new basic garments that, at least that´s true for some, don´t really pose a challenge to me.
Some I will indeed make in due course of the year, but only if inspiration and the right fabric strike me at the same time :-)


I will challenge myself to finally master the art of pants-making!
I am lusting after some beautiful jeans, pedal-pushers or palazzo-pants since ages now, and am determined to at least make one staple with the perfect fit for my bum, so that I can venture out from that.


Don´t get me wrong, I still love dresses and skirts, but pants are my new vision of the perfect summer garment that is still missing in my wardrobe.


Maybe you want to watch my progress with that?


Sorry if I disappointed some of you, but it was just a rather stupid idea that surfaced in this year´s early days, so don´t be sad. There´s more to come, promise!


Until then, keep the needles poised and the good spirits up!
Happy sewing,


Milan

2015 a new challenge!

Dear lovely readers,

A new year has arrived again... So soon
And, as if my life wasn't packed enough, I set myself a challenge for the year 2015.
I want to sew every single garment out of Gretchen Hirsch's book: ' Gertie sews vintage casual'.
That makes 34 garments in one year!

I may stray occasionally and sew up one of Gretchens other garments (from her first book),
but generally I am  confident, I can manage 34 garments in a years time...
What do you guys think,
challenging and exciting or plain stupid?
That would make 2,88888 garments per month.
Is anyone in on it?

I will report my progress here of course.
In the meantime have a beautiful start into 2015,
and happy sewing everybody!
Cheers,
Milan

Burda Vintage Jumper

Hi dears,

since the release of the Burda Vintage issue I wanted to make some of the gorgeous designs presented there.
The big ball gowns are a bit too much for me to tackle at the moment, but I made a start with the Jumper "Mary".

The fabric I chose is a cotton flanell. A little too stiff, but I only found out after I tried it on... it doesn´t have much of a drape, but still, I like the outcome.

I cut and sew a straight size 36, which is a size 8 in the States, and made no alterations... 

The result is a little big in the shoulders, but otherwise, I have no complaints.
Worn with the belt, I really felt like a Lady, even though I chose skinny jeans and boots to go with it instead of a pencil skirt and heels. Seeing the pics now, I think there is a little country vibe about it, what do you think?

Worn without the belt it resembles pj´s a little too much (what with the flanell and the checks... ;-)), but I wouldn´t wear it without belt anyways.

Since I´m back in Berlin I try to spend my time as useful as possible, meaning in front of the cutting table, sewing machine or English-Test-book for the  TOEFL... I really want to live in Australia, at least for a year, so I have to convince the immigration bureau that I can support myself and also make myself understood of course.

The second thing is the thought of taking courses in pattern making, CAD, HTML and other stuff to educate myself with things around the business of creating a brand... but that´s stuff for another time.

One thing´s for sure:
Change is in the air.

Until then, 
happy sewing

Milan

A Bronte to love

Dear Sewing-lovers,

didn´t I post that the urge to sew has left me, just, say, two or three days ago?
Oh, what can I say, I coulnd´t resist to buy the Perfect Pattern Parcel #6, which just burst with fantastic patterns, so I rediscovered the sewing passion and made my first Bronte Top by Jennifer Lauren Vintage.

There have been a lot of pics and posts of gorgeous makes of this pattern, and, as usual, I´m behind the hype, but still, I have to blow into the same horn as all the other sewists before me:
The pattern has the potential to become a classic, it´s easy to sew, with the options of long or short sleeves and contrast binding (or not) just the way you like it.

I made mine in a size 8, which fitted straight out of the pdf ;-)
It came together within three easy hours, and that´s cutting and asembling the paper pattern and cutting the fabric included!

Jennifer suggests a medium to more heavy weight jersey for this shirt, but I went with a lightweight cotton jersey, which is very strechy. Turned out it was a good choice as the sleeves sit a teensy bit more snug than I like it under the armpits.

Apart from that, I´m really happy with the outcome of the pattern.
Because you don´t need much fabric it is perfect as a stashbuster, too.

There are some more Brontes to come from me, that´s for sure...(my stash is bursting with stuff, oh my god...).

Right, that´s my first make after my two month long trip in Australia and Japan.
The next countdown (to Burning Man Festival next September) will start soon.

Until then, 
happy sewing and don´t forget to let me know what you think or ask whatever you like.

Cheers,
Milan

Fabric shopping in Nippori (Japan)

Hi sewing-folks,

it´s been a while since my last post (as usual), and this time I have a really good excuse:

I spent two months on a trip to Australia and Japan!

I cannot start telling you how beautiful and overwhelming it all was, you guys should definitely go there, if you´re looking for your next holiday destination!

Unfortunately I couldn´t take my sewing-machine, so there are no new makes coming from me right now, BUT I went fabric shopping during my last three days in Tokyo, and I bought a shitload of gorgeous stuff to be made into (hopefully) gorgeous clothes...

I also fell in love with the traditional garment of the Japanese women: the kimono.

After getting a little into the subject, I soon found out that it is almost a science to learn how to put on a kimono and which and how many pieces a kimono consists of. Not to mention the meaning a particular design can imply and what is considered siutable for a woman my age and social position.
I ended up buying a vintage kimono from a thrift shop (with the friendly assistance of a native speaking gentleman and a skillfull shop-assistant), but without all the undergarments, collars, ribbons, socks and shoes that normally accompany such an outfit. The kimono alone weighs over one kilogram and I couldn´t risk to have overweight in my backpack (as airlines have hefty prices for a few kilos overweight)...

Apart from that I bought lovely linens, a few Kokka-design cottons, a lovely brokade (to be made into either a box-pleated skirt or an egg-shaped 50ies inspired jacket) and some baby-jersey for a friend.

Being home again means having all my supplies and machines back into reach, but I´m strangely uninspired at the moment. Despite all the lovely fabrics I bought, I don´t feel the spark of joy I normally get when I find the right pattern for a fabric I love. Maybe I sill lack the right patterns?

Hm. For now, I blame it on the jet-lag. I still wake up at 5am and can´t go back to sleep.
I hope it will change soon. In the meantime, I will rumage through my closet and (fall-)clean it to make room for the winter wardrobe (which I sadly have to fetch from it´s storage in the cellar now) and hope inspiration will strike me soon.

I purchased a few patterns also during my stay, two at StyleArc.com, a Melbourne-based pattern company which you shouldn´t miss out on, and of course, PerfectPatternParcel#6 (which is no longer available).
Will soon present you with some makes from those, hopefully for sure.

Until then, 
happy sewing
and let me know if you have questions or suggestions

Milan

Bombshell by accident

Hi sewing nerds,

summer´s finally decided to stay for a while, so I spent time mostly outdoors, enjoying the sun and lazy breezes here in Berlin and around at the lakes that surround our capital city.

But still, sewing is with me all the time.
I got inspired by a dress made by my favorite designer, Lena Hoschek, which she released this summer, namely: the cabrio leaves dress. A jersey dress with a pencil skirt shape with ruffles at the sideseam and knotted at the shoulders with a little waterfall neckline.

As I didn´t find any unlicensed pics online, I give you this, my own interpretation of the pattern and overall look of the dress:

This is the fabric I found for my experiment, a lightweight cotton jersey with some elastic and a similar color as the original.

The fabric and the idea then lay in my stash and waited to come to life, but I got distracted and did many ohter garments before yesterday I came across a website that sparked my interest, trashtocouture.com, by the talented Laura.

She presented a tutorial for a ruffled skirt that looked smashing and so I dove into my stash to look for a siutable fabric, coming up with the one above.

I didn´t opt for a maxi skirt though, a mid length was more to my liking.

I did the skirt and it fit me well. During my first fitting in front of the mirror suddenly I felt reminded of the cabrio leaves dress and the idea to make this skirt into a dress struck me.

I rummaged through my old Burda issues to find a pattern with a waterfall neckline, as I had never made one before and wasn´t sure about how the pieces should look. I found one in Burda 9/2012, shirt 130.

I cut the front and back pieces and added a little capsleeve as I found long sleeves wouldn´t work on this dress. But when trying it on together with the skirt it just looked old-fashioned. I didn´t like it at all.

It makes a nice shirt though :-)

I found a shirt pattern in an old magazine (from 1997) and, although it didn´t feature a waterfall neckline, it sported a knotted shoulder. 

The pattern asked for double layers, which I managed to sqeeze out of my remaining fabric. Sewn together and in front of the mirror for a fitting.

It looked promising. So I basted it together and connected skirt and top.

And to my surprise, I looked so much like one of these 1940ies Bombshelldresses! Starting this I had no idea how it would turn out, but I love the result.

The slit may be a little naughty e.g. too high, but still, I like it like that. Also the asymmetrical hem. I was shortly thinking about adding more ruffles also to the second side, then decided against it. It is much more interesting this way. What do you think?

You must excuse my pics, unfortunately there was no one near to make them, so I had to use the self-portrait button and hope for the best...

Like it a lot :-)

A little on the butt side... still like it

If I dare, I will wear it tonight at the outdoor dancing at the Bode Museum.

All in all, I think I´m going to experiment a lot more often, now that this one came out so nicely.

Watch out for new makes.

Happy sewing peeps, and keep the good spirits up!

A very retro-inspired Tiramisu

Hi folks,

let me proudly present to you my latest make:
a Tiramisu.
It´s actually my second version and much improved too :-)

I found the fabric, a soft drapey viscosejersey, at the market "Stoffmarkt Holland", a travelling fabric market that comes to Potsdam every three months for one day only. And fell in love with this aquamarine color and little white polka dots (of course).

My first version of the Tiramisu by Cake patterns was made of a similar fabric, yet I had my problems with the right sizing of the bodice. My torso is rather long and my boobs small, so I decided on going with a size 30 (the smallest available). During the first fitting I sadly found out that it was much too short. Luckily I had some fabric left and cut the bodice again, same size but about six centimeters longer than before. That did the trick. In the end I had to take in some of the sideseams (about two centimeters at eacht side) to make it fit at the waist, and I like the result alltogether.

With this version I wanted it to sit right at my natural waist, so I widened the waistband on top of the longer bodice pieces, and now I just love the result.

The white seambinding gives a nice and clean finish to it, imagine white gloves and a poodle and I could step right into a Cary Grant Movie...

I added the pockets to this one (where I omitted them with the first version) and they don´t make the hips look bigger at all (which was a concern at first).

In short, I love this dress. 
Hopefully the summer will remember to come along to play soon, or it will just hang in my drawer and wait for better weather!

I will wear it to my Salsa dance class on Sunday anyway.

Hope you like it as much as I do:-)

Cheers, and happy sewing,
Milan